Attack of the Midge!

Well we said in the last post that we'd look out for another opportunity to climb on the Polldubh crags in Glen Nevis, and as luck would have it our next chance was only around the corner! So yesterday morning we hurriedly stuffed our gear into the van and managed to get away from the hostel at about 9:30. Despite the early start we didn't arrive until about 10:45, due to the roadworks on the main road into Fort William - although the traffic here is a huge improvement on England, it seems we're not immune to the odd irksome traffic jam!

This time we decided to explore a different crag, Sheep Fank Wall, which holds a range of lower grade routes and a couple of harder ones to look longingly at! After parking in the official Lower Falls car park and dutifully paying our £2.00, we walked down the road and cursed as we passed the free layby opposite the spot where a path leads up the hillside to the crags.

Our first route was Sheep Fank Wall, a lovely easy one-star Diff to get us into the swing. While I was leading up, I was interrupted a few times by Matt, shouting something about me getting a move on because he was being eaten alive. Whatever! I was too busy enjoying the pleasant easy climbing to take much notice, but after arriving at the belay and sitting down to belay him up, I realised with dismay what he'd been moaning about. Midges by the hundred had started swarming around me and were now settling on my exposed arms, ankles, neck and even face with alarming speed! As my hands were busy with the ropes I tried in vain to blow the horrible creatures off my skin, but to no avail. By the time Matt arrived at the belay I'd given up and resigned myself to the fact I was also now being eaten alive. Still, it had been a great route to start the day and we still had a couple of hours left, so Matt decided he'd try a two-star Severe next. We quickly walked down to the bottom and soon he'd set off, leaving me to the mercy of the midges once more.

The route followed a lovely big diagonal break in the otherwise smooth slabby face, and despite being slightly vegetated in places, it was a lovely climb with some nice moves. Matt made it look pretty easy, but as I was about to set off I was surprised to feel a little bit nervous - it was over a year since I'd climbed anything that hard, what if I really struggled?! But once I'd set off all negative thoughts disappeared, and calmness reigned. Although I was only seconding it, I felt a surge of the old confidence coming back. I was pleased to realise it felt really great to be climbing again.

We headed back to the bottom for a spot of lunch, and decided we had time for one more quick route before getting back to the hostel for the afternoon arrivals. In front of us was a short two-star Hard Severe - I was still basking in my newly regained confidence, and after eyeing it up for a few moments said I'd have a crack at it. As I was gearing up I started wondering what I'd let myself in for, but then the usual 'psyching up' process started and these doubts were all banished - it was a short route, and had plenty of protection potential. I'd be fine.

I set off and soon found a good runner placement, which calmed my initial nerves. The route followed a groove between the slab and an adjacent protruding wall, and I was pleased to find plenty of small finger pockets in the crack. As I got further from the ground, the nerves were creeping back in, and I placed 2 more pieces of protection for peace of mind before attempting the final moves. I was feeling good so far but knew my arms were out of practice and tiring quickly from the effort of hanging around to place gear. I moved carefully up the final section, and a slightly desperate lunge for a large hold just within my reach brought me to the top. I scrambled the last few feet to a ledge from where I belayed. I was elated to have climbed at such a grade again, albeit on a short route, and gave myself a pat on the back for giving it a go. Matt soon followed me up and congratulated me with a hug. Roll on the next challenge!!!!

As we headed back to the hostel, I replayed the climbing in my mind, enjoying it all over again. Suddenly Matt broke my daydream, shouting "17" at me. "17 what?" I asked, trying to work out what he could possibly have meant. "17 midge bites on your left arm!" he replied, and as I glanced down to my left arm extended to the steering wheel, I saw the numerous red lumps now glowing on my skin. In all the excitement I'd forgotten all about the dreaded midges!

I guess that's another lesson in Highland living to add to the list :o)

Jen x